Nebbiolo D'Alba 2018

Sordo Giovanni Nebbiolo d’Alba 2018 is a classic, traditionally styled Piedmontese red from the Roero, made from 100% Nebbiolo grown on the sunny, steep slopes on the left bank of the Tanaro. The vineyards sit at around 280–330 metres elevation on compact calcareous marl, with the sandy, mineral-rich soils of the Roero helping to give Nebbiolo a particularly fragrant and approachable expression. (sordowines.com)

The 2018 shows a bright ruby-garnet colour and a delicate but expressive bouquet of raspberry, wild strawberry and red berries, accompanied by hints of violet, subtle spice and gentle savoury nuances. On the palate it is dry, warm and medium-bodied, with clear, juicy red fruit, lively acidity and the characteristic fine but grippy tannins of Nebbiolo. The structure is more restrained than that of Barolo or Barbaresco, but the wine retains Nebbiolo’s distinctive combination of freshness, aromatic lift and savoury complexity. A 2018 tasting by Falstaff highlighted its raspberry, wild-strawberry and watermelon character, with tight, youthful tannins and a dry finish.

The wine is fermented in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks after destemming, with approximately 10 days of submerged-cap maceration, followed by six months in stainless steel and nine months of maturation in large Slavonian-oak barrels. This traditional élevage gives the wine additional texture and complexity while keeping oak influence restrained. At around 14% alcohol, it combines warmth and ripeness with the freshness needed to maintain balance.

At eight years from vintage, the 2018 should now be moving from youthful red-fruit expression towards greater dried-flower, liquorice, earthy and savoury complexity. Given the relatively accessible style of Nebbiolo d’Alba, I would drink this now rather than hold it for many more years, particularly if storage has been warm. A beautifully traditional and gastronomic Piedmontese red, it is especially suited to risotto, pasta, braised meats, game, mushrooms, charcuterie and aged cheeses.